Stocking Your Tool Kit with the Other Essentials – Unique Sewing Tools & Their Uses

Wire shelves to hold sewing supplies, all the clutter corralled in tubs
Princess YellowBelly Designs logo

As anyone who’s ever sewed knows, there’re a lot of tools that you use every day that don’t come with a sewing machine or a beginner’s sewing kit.  Here I’ll talk about some of these everyday items that I personally have found to be very useful.  These unique sewing tools and their uses include oddities like calculators and surgery clamps!

Every seamstress in existence likely has their own ideas of what the essentials for sewing are, but I am sure that mine is the right stuff and you should follow my lead exclusively!  I will now give you the benefit of my great wisdom and experience in these matters as I’m sure you will be confused if I don’t. 

And, if you have an absolutely terrific sewing tool that I haven’t mentioned in this article, or in the first and second articles in the stocking your tool kit series please send me an email at karyl@pybdesigns.com. Plus, if you have trouble storing all these little tools, please check out our article on corralling your sewing tools and supplies.

These sewing tools are practical, creative, and occasionally unique…

Ironing Boards

You absolutely MUST have one of these as there is no other way to iron large pieces of fabric in an efficient manner. 

Just go down to the closest box store and buy yourself a plain old ironing board.  In all the decades that the 2-legged adjustable height ironing board was invented, they have never come up with anything better. 

Why re-invent the wheel! 

Show strips of fabric laid out over an ironing board

It doesn’t matter if you’re short, tall, sitting or standing, a regular ironing board will extend to just the height you need.  They have come up with new and fancy ironing board covers which I change out as needed. If you sew at all regularly, your ironing board cover will get dirty, sticky, and just all around yucky looking.  When this happens I buy a new one and hey-presto – a new looking ironing board!

I like to keep my board permanently open and sitting at right angles to the desk on which I sew.  This way, I only have to swivel back and forth from one to another – very quick and efficient.

One Useful Feature You Do Need in an Ironing Board

Make sure you buy an ironing board that has a metal stand on the end for your iron.  I plug my iron in when I start my day and leave it on till I’m done. It’s great to have a hot iron at the moment you need one, and leaving it sitting on the metal stand means you don’t have to worry about jostling the ironing board as you work and knocking your iron onto the floor…or hand…or lap.  

Ironing Board with fabric

This is also a great way to make sure that nothing catches fire!

If, by chance, your ironing board breaks in some way, DON’T throw it away.  If you have room, keep it and set it up as a place to hang your ironed fabrics, strips, and applique shapes of the project you’re working on. 

Broken ironing boards also make great extra desks – I do my month-end books on mine. 

A second ironing board also comes in very handy for holding the excess weight of a quilt as you’re feeding it through your machine.  Simply set it up on your left-hand side (if you’re right- handed), and at right angles to your sewing machine at the same height.  Lay your project on this instead of on the floor or on your lap. 

This works great and saves a lot of wear and tear on your shoulders!

Irons – A Sewing Tool You Cannot Do Without!

That you will need an iron is a given.  But what make and what model? 

I must be honest here.  I am NOT an iron-whisperer. As a matter of fact, my feng shui is kryptonite to irons.  I never abuse them but they die anyway.

Close up of a steam iron

I always follow the manufacturer’s instructions diligently, never fill them with plain tap water, and turn them off when I’m not using them.  Yet anyone would think that I am a closet iron abuser since they still choke, burble, and die eventually; but since I have the same effect on wristwatches, I have decided not to take it too personally. 

As a result, I buy cheap irons that have no reservoirs to fill and 10 different setting options to choose from. 

When I need to steam something (like seams) I spray the area first with (gasp) tap water that I keep in a handy-dandy spray bottle and then I just set my hot iron on it to press it.  It works like magic. 

When my iron gives up the ghost (every few years) I simply buy a new, cheap one. 

There are too many things in this world to worry about and I’ve decided that the reason irons hate me is not going to be one of them.

I do have one smaller iron which I use in tiny, tight corners.  It’s actually a long wand with a very small clover leaf shaped foot at the end.  It’s small, it’s hot, and it’s perfect for every little thing.

Image of a Dritz brand iron-off

Iron-Off Hot Iron Cleaner by Dritz 

This is a fabulous product that takes all of the frustration out of keeping your iron plate clean and gliding like new.  Basically if you use your iron more than once a month you’re going to want a little bottle of iron-off.

Rulers

Although I consider myself a quilting rebel and loathe matching corners, etc., this does not negate the need for rulers and accurate measuring.  If we’re being totally honest being a quilting rebel and liable to taking hard left turns from the norm actually means using rulers a lot more – because otherwise you’re going to end up with a nasty mess.

I use rulers constantly, and as you would expect, there are rulers for every type of measuring you need to do.

Measuring Tapes

This is the #1 type of ruler.  They are soft and flexible, come in 2-3 foot lengths, and are utterly indispensable when you need to measure anything over 12” long.  Get one and keep it handy.  Trust me, this is one sewing tool you won’t want to do without.

As you can see, I’ve used this puppy so often that there are breaks and pieces of it missing…

School Ruler

Rainbow hard plastic 12 inch rulers

I have a few of the old rulers the kids used for school and I use them all the time.  They’re easy to store, measure up to 12”, and have nice, straight, hard edges.  I don’t just use them measuring, however.  Here are a few other things I use them for:

  • Guides for drawing straight lines (lay the ruler on your fabric and presto!)
  • Making new patterns on paper (we do this a lot at Princess YellowBelly Designs)
  • Smoothing out creases
  • As a barrier for keeping things from rolling off the desk  

Sewing Gauge

I did without one of these for years till Barb convinced me to give it a try and now I use mine constantly.  It is my go-to for when I need small, extremely exact measuring.  My sewing gauge is made by Dritz, is made from a light-weight, bendable metal, is 6” long and has a slit down the center that a blue plastic gauge slides back and forth in.  The blue plastic gauge has 2 points sticking out either side of the ruler that lets you mark your fabric in exact n’ths of inches or centimeters.

Even and especially in fabric art, details and minutiae matters.

Hard Plastic Ruler

The ruler I am talking about here is the 24”x6” one that fits the standard 18”x24” cutting board.  This is an absolute necessity as you can’t use your cutting board and rotary cutter (see the sharp stuff article) efficiently if you don’t have it. 

I bought mine 27 years ago and have put thousands of miles on it and even though some of the numbers are getting worn it still works like a charm. Get one!

Cutting Board

I’m including this here because although a cutting board is for cutting fabric on, it is also a ruler.  By using this board and the hard plastic ruler that fits it, you will be able to cut any number of fabric strips and pieces quickly, cleanly and accurately.  There are many different sizes and shapes of cutting boards out there but all I have ever used or needed is the standard 18”x24” one.

Specialty Rulers

These are all the hard plastic rulers that come in all shapes and sizes and often correspond to one specific pattern.  They come in triangles, circles, rectangles, squares, swirls, etc. and take up a lot of storage room.  I try to avoid them if I can but now and then I succumb because they are attached to a pattern that I just can’t resist and then never get around to making anyway. 

When this happens, learn to forgive yourself, store them out of sight and as soon as possible, gift the whole kit to someone else.

Small, Essential Sewing Tools and Their Uses

These are the sewing tools that I keep right next to my sewing table in a kidney dish that I brought home from the hospital years ago.  

Tear-drop shaped point turner

Point Turner

This 5” long piece of hard plastic is completely necessary any time you need to push out a point or a curve in a project.  It has an elongated teardrop shape, and, like its name suggests, it comes to a sharp point which you can slide into hard to reach spaces and use to gently push. 

Nothing else (scissors, pencils, skewers, etc.), work like this little tool.  It’s one of those tools that saves endless frustration.

Needle-Nosed Pliers

Red handled needle-nose pliers

Michael says I stole these from his tool box but since they’re still under the same roof, I think it’s more accurate to say that I appropriated them (permanently).

These pliers come into play when you need to pull the sharp end of a pin out of a project and it’s stuck and the head’s come off.  They’re also great for pulling thread snarls out of your machine’s bobbin well, and helping to pull hand-sewing needles through thick fabric sandwiches.  Trust me, it beats a thimble.

Erasable Pens

These are exactly what they say.  Your draw a line or shape with them and after you sew over it simply apply a hot iron and abracadabra – it’s gone!  It really does work like magic.  They come in about 6 different colors but I generally like the black ones best.

Fabric Glue  

I like to put a drop of this under any button or bead that I sew onto a project because it’s a 2nd layer of protection.  Simply apply onto the bottom, lay something heavy on top and leave for 12-24 hours and you have a permanent bond that won’t come out in the wash. 

This is especially important if you have small children around.  An excellent brand of fabric glue is Aleene’s.

Surgery Clamp

surgery clamps used as sewing scissors

I stole – err, appropriated – these from Michael as well.  I guess he had them because he used to doctor cattle when we were ranching, and he doesn’t use them anymore, so I don’t see why I shouldn’t help myself. 

Anyway, I have re-purposed them as fabric tube turners.  These clamps look like a short pair of scissors with the tips turned up but they’re not sharp.  The handle end has two little metal protrusions that you can clamp together.  I simply insert the blade end into a tube, clamp the top end together and pull gently. 

They work great!  If your guy doesn’t have a pair of these handy, I have seen “real” point turners for sale in quilt magazines.  I often use safety pins to help turn my tubes, but if your tube is too small for that, you may want to invest in one of these.

Spray Starch

This is marvelous stuff!! You simply spray it onto fabric and run a hot iron over it.  It not only starches your fabric beautifully so that it will hold its shape as you cut and sew, but it removes ALL wrinkles.  You know, those wrinkles that have been there since you stored that particular piece of fabric?  Spray starching and ironing takes those right out the first time!  I wish I could find some that would work on my face.

The cheapest way to buy spray starch is by the gallon and then pour it into individual spray bottles. 

The best brand available that I have found is Mary Ellen’s Best Press.  It comes in different fragrances but if I were you I would get the plain scent.  When you put a hot iron on the scented stuff, especially if you’re ironing a lot of fabric, the smell will about knock you out. 

Beware of scented spray starch!

Basting Spray

This is just a mild, sprayable glue. 

Basting spray is one of my favorite sewing tools because it saves a great deal of time and frustration.  It lightly glues the layers of your project together without needing to pin – especially for the smaller projects.  Basting spray also stops 95% of wrinkles from forming while you’re quilting. 


I’ve found out that if you iron your project front and back after you’ve basted it, it not only gets rid of all those wrinkles but the heat of the iron helps the basting spray to adhere more tightly so things won’t move.  It’s great stuff. 

Beware though – this stuff is extremely sticky, so go down to the local dollar store and buy a cheap shower curtain.  Lay this on a flat surface and then lay your project on top of it so that any residual spray will not ruin the surface of your table or counter.

Thimble

These come in extremely handy when you’re hand-sewing as they really save the tips of your fingers.

Sharpie Permanent Fabric Markers  

Sharpie permanent marker felt tip set

Actually, these are permanent on anything you use them on, but fabric is one of the best.  I bought an entire color range of these because you never know which color you’re going to need.  I use my black one the most. 

These come in very handy for drawing in lines that are too small or difficult to sew like the mane on my Sunset Horse and the scales on my Dragon Quilt.  They’re also great for marking over things you want to disappear like the top thread that shows through on the black backing during quilting. 

They’re also great for covering up mistakes and for filling in gaps in your satin stitching, etc.  Very versatile and relatively inexpensive.

Calculator

Large button calculator

I used to do all the math in my head, only to realize time and time again that I had done it wrong and wasted a lot of fabric.  Adding and multiplying all those fractions can turn your brain inside out, so use a calculator instead and be accurate and frustration free.

I’m a little short-sighted, and I hate the complicated calculator my daughter got during her high-school algebra days, so one Christmas the kids got me an over-sized calculator.  It has huge push buttons, runs on a battery, and does simple elementary level math – addition, subtraction, multiplication, and division.  If you need anything more than that in your quilting – we can’t help you, so please go away!  (Or write us about your genius…it’s your choice.)

Lint brush

There are different types of lint brushes, and they’ll all work…but my favorite so far is a brush for pet hair – go figure!

I use this on the front and back of every project as soon as I finish it. It effortlessly removes the batting fluff, thread ends, dust, etc. that accumulate on every project and can be seen on black fabric like glowing neon. 

A few swipes with the lint brush and it’s clean and professional looking. 

I also run it over any panels that I’ve had on display before I pack them away, as it removes all dust and helps keep your art clean and slows down deterioration.

Remember to Let Us Know About the Unique Sewing Tools in Your Tool Kit

pins holding pieces together

This is my basic tool kit, the tools I use almost every time I sit down to sew.  Since I use them all the time I have made sure they’re of the best quality because when it comes to sewing tools cheap = frustration. 

So buy the best tools you can afford and they will reward you for decades to come.  And remember, the best doesn’t always mean the tools with the most bells and whistles.

We really do love to hear about tips and things from our members and followers.  You can let us know in the comments, or follow us on Facebook!  We do a lot of fun stuff over there and save cool ideas from other artists all the time. 

To the greater good of your quiltivity,

Karyl

Stock Your Toolkit with the Right Equipment – Sewing Machine Edition

Stock Your Tool Kit with the Right Equipment – Sharp Stuff Edition

Stock Your Toolkit with the Right Equipment – Sewing Machine Edition

Welcome to a new series! There’s a lot of things that you need to have in your sewing toolbox; some of them are big items – like choosing the best sewing machine, which we’ll cover in this edition. In upcoming episodes we’ll cover more necessary items every quilter should have on hand, from scissors, to thread, to little “gadgets” that you might not think of getting on your own!

How to Save Money and Still Have the Best Sewing Machine for a Quilter

Unless you are a professional seamstress (sewing for others)…a quilt store owner giving classes and selling everything remotely related to sewing…or  a professional long-arm quilter; you really won’t be needing all the bells and whistles that every quilt store and magazine insists that you must have. 

There’re lots of fancy dreams about sewing machines out there – but how do you know which is the best sewing machine for you?

How do I know? 

I’ve been sewing for 30 years and creating fabric arts and quilts for 14 years, and the closest I’ve ever gotten to all the bells and whistles was when I purchased a Bernina sewing machine.  It was an Artista 170 and the listed price at that time was $3,000.00. 

I didn’t actually pay that, however.  I got it for $800.00 because it had been a demo model. 

I’ve sewn on this machine for 10 years and really enjoyed all the fancy stitches, etc… until they stopped working so well.  Then the Bernina salesman told me it couldn’t be fixed and I needed to purchase a new one. 

Since I’d been diligently taking this machine in to be cleaned and maintained on a regular basis – and paying over $100/visit, I decided that I’d let Michael have a look at it.  Michael is a great mechanic – very methodical and thorough

He discovered 4 things. 

One: the machine had never been oiled or even properly cleaned.

Which meant that all the money I had spent supposedly having that done had been wasted. 

Two: the Bernina manufacturer had used shoddy metal

Spring on a sewing machine, trouble with a Bernina

Probably on everything, but especially on the jingle-zazzle (forgive me, darling, I don’t remember the precise term) that’s used in sewing all of the fancy stitches, and ultimately the zig-zag stitch, which is my most valuable stitch.

Three: Bernina does not provide a shop book for do-it-yourselfer mechanics to figure out how it works. 

This didn’t stop my sweetheart, and, being Michael, he stripped that Bernina down to the frame and figured it all out himself only to find yet another problem.

Four: As a “civilian” you can’t purchase a replacement part anywhere

Michael & Karyl Fitzgerald from Princess YellowBelly Designs
Karyl Fitzgerald & her husband

Not from Bernina itself, and not from the sewing machine repairman in ANY of the quilt stores!  Michael was EXTREMELY ticked off.  And, just to show them, figured out how to make it work anyway. 

The upshot was that the Bernina sewed for me for another 5 years but has now, finally, given up the ghost entirely. 

I say all this to tell you that Michael and I have been having long discussions about what I must have in a machine, what I would like to have, and what is just an added pain in the neck and the pocketbook.

Here are my conclusions:

What You Need in a Sewing Machine Depends on What You’re Planning to Create With it

After a potential financial horror story like this (imagine if I’d paid full price!) you might be leery of getting a sewing machine at all.  Forget that thinking.  Unless you’re one of those people who sews entirely by hand…but even for those who quilt or piece by hand usually do end up doing a little bit with a sewing machine.

Get your quilting out from “behind bars” by buying the best sewing machine for your needs

This is the #1 item you MUST have in your tool kit or there’s no use in going any further. 

Whether you use it:

  • Just to do the mending…
  • Making your own clothes…
  • Or quilting…

The sewing machine you purchase must be able to perform smoothly, without constant breakdowns, and get the job done with a minimum of fuss.  Here are some things you should consider and look for.

Just Because it’s Expensive, Doesn’t Mean it’s Any Good 

I actually don’t think that any of the big, brand name quilting machines could possibly be the best sewing machine for quilters. 

Like I said, I will never buy a Bernina again because of the shoddy workmanship…the unavailability of a shop book…the expense of a maintenance visit…and the refusal on the company’s part to sell individual parts to the unwashed masses. 

I have checked with Baby-Lock and Janome and this appears to be their standard operating procedure as well. 

Barb bought herself a new Janome a few years back and it cost her around $8,000.00

I would say this is insane because you have to sew professionally for this to be at all financially sound, and Barb sews way less than I do.  Also, Michael found out on his many travels via the Internet, that Bernina at least, sells their machines in Europe for half the price they sell them for here, and I find that very upsetting.

What You Don’t Need in a Sewing Machine

If you are into embroidery in a big way, then you will obviously need a machine that does this – but shop very carefully.  I’m sure there are ways to purchase the best sewing machine for specialties like this without paying top dollar

A sewing machine that's been stripped down to it's metal frame on a kitchen table in front of a window

The internet is always a good place to start – and my favorite quilting store recently moved buildings, and marked their machines down by 50%. 

However, if you only want to do the occasional monogram, like I do, you only need a machine that does a nice satin stitch and has free motion quilting. 

Buying a Cheaper Machine Can Force Ingenuity

I have often lusted over machines that have a wider throat because it is so much easier to push a larger project through them.  But, since I’ve never had one, and refuse to spend thousands to obtain one, I used my in-born creativity and figured out ways to put smaller pieces through before joining them to the larger piece. 

This is called quilting in sections and there are a lot of ways to go about doing this, and believe me, they work!  So don’t spend thousands for a larger throat machine if you don’t absolutely have to.

Plus, a big reason I quilt is to keep my mind sharp.  So trying new and even difficult techniques is good for me, anyway.

Be Wary of Those Oh-So-Tempting Accessories

Other things that are nice but not necessary are:

  • Needle-threaders (these break easily)
  • Thread cutters
  • A knee presser foot instead of a foot pedal
  • And 300 fancy stitches – of which you will probably only use 10.

There are always exceptions, of course.  My eyesight isn’t great, so if I didn’t have my kids around, I’d probably need a needle-threader.  I’ve known of quilters who sadly suffer from physical ailments, and they actually do need the knee presser. 

What You Do Need in a Sewing Machine

That being said, there are a few qualities and features that you need to look for if you’re going to be successful in find the best sewing machine for you.

This is my best sewing machine – the second of two identical machines which does all the work of my Bernina for roughly $140 a machine

Durability

This means a machine that is well made with the best material available, especially when it comes to the shanks (whatever those are), and other internal workings, etc.  It must be built with good steel. 

You can find all this out if you check out each machine’ website, but you might also want to ask your local shade-tree mechanic for advice if you can. 

Maneuverability  

If you’ve never owned a machine with a computer in it, it will astonish you at how much they weigh!  My Bernina was just a regular sized machine, but it weighed at least 3 times more than one without a computer. 

The weight factor become much more of an issue the older you get. 

If you plan on moving your machine around to quilting circles, classes, maintenance checkups, etc., consider the mechanics of moving it.  Barb has to have her son load hers into the car, and moves it around in a wagon because there’s no lifting that sucker for anyone over 50.

Motor Strength

Machines that are advertised as Heavy Duty, are to my mind, the best sewing machines for overall sewing, especially for home sewers who do more on them than just quilt. 

For example I also like to do:

Applique foot on Bernina sewing machine - Princess YellowBelly Designs
  • The mending
  • Sew curtains
  • Various household decorations
  • Sew clothes for Michael, etc.

Besides doing all my fabric art stuff.  This requires that my machine have the strength to sew through several layers of denim and still be able to stitch chiffon fabrics. 

Free Motion Quilting

If you do any fabric art or quilting at all, you will need the free motion quilting feature.  This is becoming more and more common in almost every brand of machine – don’t buy one that doesn’t include it.

A Strong Zig-Zag

When you think about all of those fancy stitches that the top-line machines have, ALL of them are created with a zig-zag stitch.  So it makes sense to be sure that this part is created with the strongest steel and machined perfectly, and that it can be easily oiled, cleaned and maintained, because if it can’t, your fancy stitch feature won’t last very long.  Ever heard of planned obsolescence? 

The Best Sewing Machine for You is a Hard Decision

One problem with the smaller, cheaper machines – like my own Singer Work Horse – is that they tend to have a limited life, and when they go, they’re gone.  So just know that you won’t be able to extend the life of one of these quite as much as a big machine.

Michael and I finally concluded that the three features that I used constantly in my work were straight stitching, zig-zag stitching, and free-motion quilting. 

So this is all I’m going to purchase at present.

Sometimes it is more cost effective to buy 2 different machines to accomplish different tasks than to buy one machine that does it all.  Like a plain, regular sewing machine and a separate serger or embroidery machine. 

Both machines will be more simply built and therefore more easily maintained.  The more features you stuff into one machine the more there is to go wrong. I finally decided to buy a $130.00 Heavy Duty Singer for the bulk of my sewing, and am thinking of purchasing a Brothers 1500 that does nothing but straight stitch and free motion quilt. 

A sewing machine that's been stripped down to it's metal frame

The Singer has an excellent zig-zag feature and this way I can spread my sewing over 2 machines without wearing them out.

The Snob Factor

Beware, beware.  This is a monster that can get you into all sorts of hot water financially. 

“The nose is up…the eyes cast down!”

It’s a combination of jealousy, keeping up with the Jones’s, and wanting to stick your nose up in superiority while looking down on mere mortals.  It’s a great temptation and being human, we all do it from time to time.

This is no less true than in the quilting world. 

Just walk through a quilt show and listen to the people around you running down a machine sewn binding vs a hand-sewn one, etc.  This totally human tendency can be completely harmless if you keep it in your head. But if you let it into your wallet it can be BIG trouble and cost you BIG bucks.

Don’t fall for the “more expensive it is, the better it is and therefore, the better I am” lie.

A $200.00 machine can work for you just as well as a $5,000.00 one if it does what you need it to do. 

Princess YellowBelly Designs logo

So, give a careful think about what you need your sewing machine to accomplish, do your due diligence on the Internet by checking out each machine you might be interested in, talk to friends and fellow seamstresses about their machines and recommendations, be realistic about your budget for a new machine, and make your choice. 

HAPPY SEWING!

Stock Your Tool Kit with the Right Equipment – Sharp Stuff Edition

Stocking Your Tool Kit with the Other Essentials – Unique Sewing Tools & Their Uses